Hardraw to Tan Hill 16 miles

The best day yet walking and weather wise: hills and dales bathed in sunshine. And the moorland not too boggy. It’s windy though and my arms are red from too much exposure. This is where we started – Hardraw bunkhouse which I recommend. It’s basic but a good space and excellent showers. 

From there onto Great Shunner Fell which Wainwright said he could climb all day even though he was fat and senile. It was a pleasant climb with birdsong and shadows of clouds passing over the hills. 

We passed Thwaite which had an excellent tea shop and fine cake, and Keld another pretty village. We saw streams and waterfalls and all round loveliness. 

But while the villages are pretty, on a walk like this it’s the cairns and shelters which most appeal to me.

A thoughtfully constructed four way wind break so walkers are protected no matter which way the wind blows. 


This is not the work of an afternoon and we appreciate those who gave their time in the cause. Indeed Becky coined a new Beatitude: Blessed are the slab layers, for they help us walk on dry land.

Tonight we are at Britain’s highest inn, with lots of other crazy people who enjoy pounding their feet on long distance trails. Outside farmers are constructing sheep pens for a show on Thursday. Downstairs two women are marking the death of their mother who passed away two years back. She took them on a cycling holiday in this area as teenagers in the 70s on bikes with no gears. Respect. They are not seasoned walkers but are doing it to honour her. And loving it and feeling proud. Another grizzled looking  guy from LA has walked the Appalachian Way, Pacific Crest Trail, two Caminos and many long distance paths in the UK. He clearly is addicted to this. 

We are now halfway in days and tomorrow we reach halfway in mileage. Some monster walks to come: but for now I’m happy to be in the second column. 

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2 thoughts on “Hardraw to Tan Hill 16 miles

  1. Loving reading this Verity. I am so envious- what a fab trip! Many years ago I read a book – Pennine Walkies: Boogie Up the Pennine Way by Mark Wallington. Loved it – man doing the Penine Way with flatulent dog Boogie. Jo x

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