We’ve had two tip top days of walking. Dry weather and two excellent hosts. Robin in Clay Bank/ Chop Gate and Ian from Sunderland who runs a superb B and B in Kildale. The building The Old Rectory is like something from old school Joanna Trollope, warm stone and paintings and indeed an Aga. Both places had quiet rooms and crisp linen and a Quality Breakfast. I have to saying that our milk was in a flask but it was like something I’d buy, not rescue from Granny’s attic. Or find for 50p at a boot fair.
A Quality Breakfast has juice, fruit, yoghurt, granola maybe and other cereals. Then all that fried stuff which I eat then regret when I go up the first hill. And nice bread and butter please. This is my holiday after all.
We don’t really do lunch, so a decent breakfast is crucial to see us through to dinner. Yesterday evening Ian took us to a pub in the next village which was ok . Fish cakes and salad. Tonight we had a picnic in our room from Sainsburys which I enjoyed more. Sometimes like today I feel too tired to sit up straight at a table so noshing down salad and pie and pistachios on my bed is all I can manage.
Some ideal walking
Helen scrambling over the Wainstones
I never thought I’d love the moors but I do. We’ve been blessed with dry weather and can walk enjoying the heather and birdsong, with an appreciation of those volunteers who laid a path for us over the boggy terrain. We’ve met very few people -again- some Coast to Coasters, who admire us carrying our own packs, but otherwise only one companion we meet every day a young man I’ll call Jim. Because he’s wild camping while making films and soundscapes. He’s an independent, cheerful and fascinating character and last time we saw him he was sitting on a bench with a rapt audience of old ladies.
Tonight we are in Saltburn which is very pleasant and we’ve seen a pod of dolphins off the pier. It’s warm and windy and we’re halfway there. It’s a wrench leaving the splendid isolation off the moors but we have some headlands and seaside to come.
The contrast between carrying your pack ‘out there’ and in the town feels huge. We are grubby and windswept and we are mixing with people dressed up and out for lunch at a carvery. They don’t mind. Everyone without exception has been pleasant so far. But feeling dirty in a clean place is eye opening.
So far so good. One small blister. A lot of yawning. Tomorrow is a longer walk still. 17 miles. Down the coast to Sandsend. Down – should be easy. Yes?